A note from Tapan
“Most people plan a wildlife trip hoping to see a tiger. In Simlipal I saw a mother elephant and her calf crossing a road at dusk, and I completely forgot tigers existed. That's what this forest does to you.”
What I experienced
Simlipal is one of those places that doesn't photograph well. The jungle is too dense, the light too patchy, the mornings too misty. You can't capture it, so you just have to be there.
I'd been to Corbett, Ranthambore, Bandhavgarh — the famous parks. Simlipal is different. No tourist infrastructure, no tiger show, no jeep traffic jams. Just you and a forest ranger on a trail where elephants walked last night.
The sal trees here are enormous — some older than 200 years. The air smells of damp earth and something older than anything I can name. I've taken three groups here. Everyone comes back changed. None of them can explain exactly why.
Day by day
How the days actually went.
- 01
Day 1
Arrive at Baripada, enter the forest
We reach Baripada by train and drive the 60km to the Pithabata gate. Check into the forest rest house — basic, beautiful, surrounded by sal. Evening walk with the ranger to a waterhole. We heard elephants before we saw them.
- 02
Day 2
Morning game drive, afternoon forest walk
A 4am start for the morning drive — this is when you see the most. Herds of gaur (Indian bison), spotted deer, and if you're quiet and lucky, a glimpse of stripes between the trees. Afternoon is a slow forest walk to the Bareipani falls.
- 03
Day 3
Joranda Falls and the deep forest trail
The 150-metre Joranda waterfall is one of India's tallest, and almost no one knows it exists. The trail through the forest to reach it is the most beautiful three hours I've spent anywhere in India.
- 04
Day 4
Leave slower than you arrived
No early starts on the last day. Breakfast on the veranda. A final walk. The drive back to Baripada always feels like re-entering a different world. It takes a day or two before normal life feels normal again.
Local tips
Things I'd tell a friend before they go.
- Simlipal is open November to June. The best wildlife sightings are February–April.
- Entry permits are required — we handle all bookings as part of the trip.
- No mobile network inside the reserve. Disconnect completely.
- Wear muted colours (olive, brown, khaki) — bright clothes disturb wildlife.
- Leeches in the wet season — tuck your socks over your trousers if visiting just after monsoon.
